MARGARET'S,

Margaret's is only a half-hour from Providence, so I showed up early enough for a light lunch before meeting Jerry for dinner. I moseyed in, casual-like, not wanting to signal my eagerness and contribute to access being restricted to those who know the daily code word. Non-locals had already discovered the place. I sat down, glanced around a small room that didn't seem special: four-stool counter, vintage oversized photo of the building, friendly waitresses chatting with customers. A similar-sized room is adjacent. Whole-belly fried clams, a daily special, looked thinly battered and greaseless. The menu had ridiculous prices: lunch-portion entrées only six and seven bucks -- sandwich-platter prices. Margaret's reopens for dinner at 5. The menu entrées increase from nine to a dozen, and the prices climb to a still-reasonable $16.95 for grilled tenderloin. No reservations, to make things practical for them; no wine and beer license, to make things even cheaper for us BYOB customers. There were also a dozen salads and pizzas and appetizers.

Full review.